Travel Thursday #6: Pilgrim Hotels in India

The Trishul Pilgrim Hotel

It really is very easy to travel cheaply in India. It is also possible to travel very very expensively in India. Your choice.

Although I have had the odd experience in India of cheaper accommodations, it was limited and I had not travelled around India staying only in low cost hotels.

Pilgrim Hotels

Our first stop was Tiruvannamalai. We stayed in a pilgrim hotel. I am not sure if this is a commonly used term, but it is what we called these hotels. The truth is, these towns are not large business centres, but they are large and auspicious spiritual centres, so they are likely to cater for pilgrims as their main source of business.

Anyway, The Trishul in Tiruvannamalai was probably a good hotel as far as pilgrim hotels go, but it was my first time in this style of accommodation. It was about 10 bucks a night. I was a bit nervous, not really knowing what to expect.

I was amazed. In each pilgrim hotel that we stayed in (there were 4 or 5 different ones that we stayed in throughout Tamil Nadu) , we had precisely what we needed. Each room had 2 beds, aircon, overhead fan and TV.  We rarely used the aircon and never watched the TV. So you see, we really did have everything that we needed.

This hotel is on Rameshwaram Island.

Swamis in residence

Can you tell Swamis and Yogis are in residence here?

Bucket Baths

Most hotels had hot water. No showers, tho. When there was a shower head in the bathroom, it didn’t work. But each bathroom had 2 buckets and a small plastic jug. We became very proficient at bucket bathing – I have done this before in Goa, but this time had a lot more practice.

Bucket Bathing

I grew to love the attention with which you wash yourself when bucket bathing. I loved the space that these bathrooms had, not restricted by shower cubicles or shower curtains. It was actually hard to give this up when we reached our final hotel, which was a bit more that 10 bucks a night and had a working shower in our room. I requested (and got) a bucket and jug, and sometimes continued the little bathing ritual.

Although I did not get to bucket bath on a rooftop, it is quite common, and makes a lot of sense.

Even bucket bathing with cool water is not bad in the heat of the day. It is actually not necessary to have hot water. In some hotels, we discovered that hot water, although available, was not automatically provided, but would be allocated to your room if you requested it. As I said, it was not always necessary to have.

Bucket BathingA Green Towel

Most hotels, but not all, had towels, although you might have to ask for them (along with the hot water). One of our hotels did not supply towels at all, so we did a quick run down the side streets till we found a stall selling towel material in a very large reel – you can buy it in any size that you want. The store owner will measure off your required length, and cut it for you. I bought a lovely green strip, and after using it in the hotel, it became my protective seat on temple floors and on the beach-side rocks where I would meditate in the morning.

This is not my towel, but it is similar.

Towel

[Aside, quietly: Also, it might be likely that toilet paper will be lesser quality than you would like, or might be in short supply (or even non-existent, it being a Western thing after all). If you need to buy toilet paper, some street stalls will have it, but please ask discretely. Very very discretely if you are woman asking male stall holder. Generally, it may be under cover in the stall, or towards the back.]

As Safe as Houses

Another thing I loved about these hotels was the complete safety – never once did I feel unsafe or threatened. Generally, there was 1 or more people constantly in the corridor outside the room. Always looking after the guests, and ready to provide some bottled water, more towels, or take your laundry.

They even sleep there.  24 hour service. 24 hour safety. 24 hour smile and ready to assist in what ever way you need. Coffee at 4:30am because you are heading out to the temple service at 5? No worries. It will be there and it will be good.

The Notion of Privacy

One thing that took a little getting used to is the tendency for people to just walk into your room. A quick knock, then into the room with your bottle of water, returned laundry, bug spray or whatever.

Down the Street

But I got used to it, I did. Very quickly actually. It is just a different sense or notion of privacy, and that makes sense where people live so closely together. It began to feel like one big family to me, where of course they would wander in at any time. (But sometimes if I needed to, I just locked the door.)

The doors all had big slide locks on the outside of them. I wondered if anyone ever gets locked in. But it seems that they don’t.

Laundry, price by the piece

At one hotel we all were desperate to have laundry done. An excellent man came to take our garments with a promise to return them the next day. All the laundry came back together, sort of in order, but not entirely. So there was some hilarious sifting through the laundry of others looking for all of your dupatas, salwarz, chemises and more delicate items. We finally worked it all out, with a lot of laughing. Then our most excellent laundry man, a beautiful person, visited each room, counting our items and then charging by the number of pieces.

In love

I loved these hotels. Generally they were close to the centre of town and very close to the temple. They might be (usually are) down a backstreet, but in the time I was in India, I walked around these towns at all times of the day and night without incident. Maybe I would not do this in a city, but the villages that we visited, I was not at all worried.

In Ramaswaram we awoke every morning at 4am to the sound of the temple band somewhere outside our hotel, and we drifted in and out of sleep as the first temple ceremonies were performed, the band played loudly, and then bhajans were played over loud speakers till about 5:30. If you wandered out into the streets at this time, most of the town was awake, women were sweeping floors and front porches, rangoli were being drawn, stalls were being arranged. Fabulous. So many tourists miss this time of the day.

Floor Sweeping

Yes, India, I will be back more often now I know I can do pilgrim hotels, green towels, bucket baths and laundry by the piece.

If I have misunderstood some things, or missed any essentials out, or plain got some things wrong, please feel free to let me know in the comments. I would really appreciate it.

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About Ganga108

Heat in the Kitchen, Cooking with Spirit. Temple junkie, temple builder, temple cleaner. Lover of life, people, cultures, travel. Champion of growth, change and awareness. Taker of photos. Passionate about family. Happy.
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19 Responses to Travel Thursday #6: Pilgrim Hotels in India

  1. A-kay says:

    Really love reading this series here. Bucket-water bath & rangoli – brought back memories :) Your post reminded me of the days during my teens, when I would wake up in the morn around 5:30 or so and draw big kolams (tamil for rangoli) on our front porch. I would learn the kolam from my mom the day-before, practice it on paper the night before.

    Hi A-kay, I would so love to be able to draw kolams – it is quite an art. I do love them in Tamil Nadu – they are very prominent there. I have a couple of photos – maybe I will post them in a future Travel Thursday.

  2. Loved your perspective on things! But taking pictures of bathing men – verry naughty of you. :D)

    Yeah, I know, evolvingtastes. But it so aptly shows bucket bathing, and maybe I knew that I needed to illustrate an up and coming post. :-) Hope he forgives me.

  3. TBC says:

    Love such posts! Keep them coming. :-)

    Any Indian who has lived there a sufficient length of time would know that finding toilet paper in the stalls would be weirder than not finding it there! :-)
    Of course, things have changed a lot these days….

    Hi TBC, yes, in fact often there is just no toilet paper. But since four years ago, my last big trip there, I think it is more available than before.

  4. Vaishali says:

    This was such a lovely, evocative read, Vegeyum. Thanks for a unique perspective.

    Thanks, Vaishali. I really appreciate that you take the time to comment. Hope you are enjoying the series.

  5. smita says:

    Bucket baths and towels! Lovely!! You wonderful intrepiud creature! Safe travels and keep writing!

    Thankyou smita!

  6. sushma says:

    Loved the pics and the informative article along with it…

    Thanks, sushma. I had such a great time, I hope it comes across in the posts.

  7. Srivalli says:

    wonderful post as usual vegeyum…great that you enjoyed..looking forward for thursdays now!..

    Wow, that is putting pressure on me! :-) So glad you enjoy them, Srivalli.

  8. Jayashree says:

    It’s nice reading about what’s familiar from a different perspective.

    Hi Jayashree, Glad you visited. You know, it is quite intimidating writing on India with so many Indian readers! I have been so full of gratitude for the wonderful reception shown to my posts and the willingness to share perspectives and to assist me to understand a little more. How lucky we are to belong to such a great blogging community.

  9. rachel says:

    ha…a good read…with equally good pics…

    Hey, glad you enjoyed it rachel.

  10. bubbleonfire says:

    Beautiful places…

    … and beautiful people.

  11. rupasivanarayana says:

    Lovely post…wonderfully written and the pics of the bathing guy…hehehehe….

    Thanks rupasivanarayana, glad you enjoyed it. What freedom it is to be able to bathe in the fresh air, overlooking the sea, scrubbing off the dirt of the day and looking forward to a wonderful evening with friends and family. Nothing better in life.

  12. Aparna says:

    All of this is so familiar but still enjoyed reading it all.
    There are lots of people, Indian and otherwise, who do not see India quite this way. So I’m happy that you could discover this side of India.
    Looking forward to more travelogues.

    I am glad that it is so familiar, Aparna, it means that I get somewhere close to the actualities of life, rather than being way way off. I know that it is always interesting hearing an interpretation of one’s culture – I have lots of American friends who love interpreting Australia!

    Love to hear any additions, corrections or feedback that you have.

  13. Suganya says:

    Such an entertaining read. I couldn’t stop smiling the whole time. Keep ‘em coming.

    Thanks, Suganya. Really love your enjoyment.

  14. indosungod says:

    Familiar practices written in an engaging style.
    Bucket water and jug (we call those things mugs ) I think it is the perfect way to solve water problems! No wastage of water.

    Ah, mugs. Thanks for letting me know. And yes, it is so thrifty with water.

  15. This was such a lovely piece to read…felt like I was on trip myself…which I hope to have one day! My daughter was there and she loved every bit of it too!glad to be back and catching up on your posts..
    Ronell

    Great to have you back, Ronell. Hope things are returning to normal. Yes, YES, go to India. You would love the colour and excitement.

  16. Cynthia says:

    You made my heart smile with this post. Truly.

    Yay! Heart smiling is good.

  17. melissa says:

    your post made me so nostalgic! i lived in india for a month in 2006 studying the northeastern hill culture. i remember how difficult it was to find toliet paper! seemed it was always hot pink at the stalls i purchased haha. i too mastered the bucket shower (happened to me in kalimpong, i stayed with a family who lived in a ravine which sat 200 stone steps off of the main road…needless to stay i learned to dodge my cobras!). the spectacular linen colors, kindness of strangers and stimulating food are what i remember most upon reflection. if only fuel prices would drop, i would go back in a heartbeat!

    Wow, how lovely to be able to be there studying. 200 steps! You must have been fit by the end of the month.

  18. Such an informative and entertaining read. I couldn’t stop smiling the whole time.Make us smile always.

  19. Janani says:

    In India its safe usually in small towns and villages. But that cannot be guaranteed in large cities esp in the metros esp in Delhi where rapes are frequent nowadays. South is usually much safer than north, atleast they don’t go to the extend of rapes. You might find petty crimes but that does take place all around the world, incl developed countries. Crimes against foreigners are very much lesser in India than anywhere else in the world. And as for the toilet papers, the quality that is available in India is poorer than in west. As to bathing from bucket, you can consider it to be a good exercise for your back when ever you bend to get water.

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